Choosing the right size is essential. The secret to well-fitting jeans is determining their quality, cut and size. Denim relaxes with age and changes to suit your shape.
When trying on a new pair of jeans, make sure they are very tight around your waist and thighs. To make sure you’ve got the right size, the top button should be hard to close, if not, try a size smaller.
For slim, skinny and semi-slim jeans, try and get your hands deep into the pockets, they should be hard to access and there shouldn’t be any excess fabric.
When picking the right length for your next pair of jeans, aim for a 2cm hem that can be adjusted to your height – any alterations at a longer length will be noticeable.
Selvedge or classic denim ?
Understanding the difference between selvedge and classic denim can make a big impact when deciding what pair of jeans to buy. How do you spot a high-quality pair of jeans? Selvedge is commonly considered as the gold standard when it comes to denim. But before you hit the BUY button, find out the features that make it superior to its classic cousin.
Selvedge denim is characterised by a ring spun yarn with reinforced detailing and robust finishing touches. This weave is created by a shuttle loom and is defined by its tonal trimmed seams in different colours (based on the brand). A slower production method ensures less stress on the fibres and offers a stronger yet softer finished product. Crafted with slight imperfections, each piece is unique – adding to its appeal.
Classic denim, on the other hand, uses an open-end yarn with weaker seams and less robust trims. A common high-street fabric, classic denim is easy to manufacture, quicker and cheaper than traditional shuttle weaving techniques.
The style and width of a leg cuff depends on the size of your calf and your frame. The perfect cuff should help balance out the shape of your thigh vs calf. It is recommended to choose a pair of jeans with a loose cuff. For example, semi-slim jeans have a 17-19 cm cuff.
Finding the right pair of jeans is all about feeling comfortable, don’t forget to check out the weight of the denim used in your favourite pair of jeans. Different types of denim will have a corresponding weight (oz) which will allow you to recognise how heavy they will feel. 1oz equals 28g.
Harking back to the origins of workwear, denim has long been used in manual professions thanks to its hardwearing and robust properties. A practical fabric that finds its roots in the U.S.A but is appropriated around the world. Today, the humble twill has been elevated from its functional foundations into a fashion mainstay. In a constant state of evolution, denim is the ultimate experiment in style and substance, transformed in a multitude of different ways but mainly via washing techniques.
Adding a personal touch to a classic fabric, innovative washing techniques offer manufacturers endless opportunities when it comes to colour, texture and fit.
Transforming traditional indigo denim with a washed, used or vintage appearance, washing techniques were discovered by accident in the 70s by Marithé & François Girbaud. Searching for ways to soften denim, they decided to wash a pair of jeans with pumice stones. The result was a soft and bright effect known today as a stone wash.
Perfected to ensure a new level of precision, each wash offers a softer and lighter touch to the fabric. To add a brighter effect to the denim, enzyme washes were later invented to create a look we now call bleached stone washing.
Today, there are several techniques available:
- Sandblasting: Treating the denim with pressurised sand grains to soften and wear the fabric – due to concerns over the safety of workers, this feature has almost disappeared completely.
- Sandpaper distressing: A manual brushing method using sandpaper to help naturally age denim.
- Wattwash: Developed by Marithé & François Girbaud, this advancement on stone washing uses a laser to reduce water waste and improve distressing whilst ensuring the durability of your jeans.
- Ozone: A natural, oxygen-rich method that uses almost no water, it is considered the most ecologically sustainable option.
There are many washing methods for denim. Following washing instructions can help to preserve the fit, feel and colour of your favourite pair of jeans. But, before you start – zip and button the front and always wash inside out.
The most gentle way to clean your jeans. Handwashing involves choosing the right detergent suited to coloured fabrics – for a helping hand, add a cap full of white vinegar when you rinse them. Avoid wringing them out to conserve their original shape. Dry flat, away from direct sunlight - on a towel.
We recommend washing your jeans on a 30°c delicate cycle. Choose a detergent suited to colours and add a cap of white vinegar during the rinse cycle. Dry flat, away from direct sunlight - on a towel.
The most reliable and safest way of caring for your favourite pair of jeans.
Some recommend not washing your jeans in-between wears and dry cleaning when necessary. After a dry clean, care with a soak in a warm bowl of water with one cap of white vinegar. Carefully rinse and hang above a towel – allowing to drip dry.
Others avoid washing altogether – with A.P.C’s tried and tested method, let your jeans get dirty for as long as possible, go swimming in the ocean wearing your jeans, rub your jeans with dry sand, and repeat several times, rinse in fresh (not salt) water and leave to dry in the sun.
Like all clothing, jeans aren’t eternal. There are few pieces in our wardrobe worn more often than your trusted pair of jeans. But over the years, excess wear, washing and everyday mishaps mean your jeans have to put up with a lot. A rip here and there might add to the character of your jeans, but when it gets too much, try affixing a patch to the interior of a hole or blemish to add some vintage cool and hide the offending mark.
Slim fit jeans are an iconic silhouette. Elongating the leg and flattering your frame, it suits most body shapes.
Our top 3: Body shapes V, A and H. Sculpting your natural outline, the slim fit lengthens the leg and is great for shorter frames searching for a balanced yet longline look.
Our style notes
Show off your footwear, style slim fits with trainers or boots. For a more formal look, pair with derbies or moccasins and a smart shirt. Top it off with a slim coat or blazer for an elegant look. For a casual edge, roll up the cuff with a pair of low tops, a t-shirt, a sweatshirt and a bomber jacket for an urban-inspired look.
Nudie Jeans is a brand that celebrates the everyday nomad with a strong ecological focus. Sourcing the finest materials and crafting each pair with unique dyeing techniques, the stylish Swedish brand works to uphold the highest environmental standards whilst still creating trend-conscious classics. Thanks to its hard work and exemplary supply chain, Nudie Jeans is certified organic. Continuing its customer service from factory floor to your wardrobe door, Nudie Jeans also organises repair shops across the world to help care and repair for your everyday basics – reducing waste and improving each pair’s longevity.
La marque suédoise ne limite pas son engagement à l’étape de fabrication. Nudie Jeans possède également des Repair Shops partout dans le monde, offrant une seconde vie à vos basiques favoris et limitant ainsi l’impact de la mode sur l’environnement.
What we love about Nudie Jeans
Nudie Jeans are one of a few brands that offer different shapes and sizes for men. Mostly slim and straight fit, each piece from the Nudie collection is crafted using natural dyes to ensure they wear and fade with style. We particularly appreciate their thoughtful detailing on the pockets and seams like the Lean Dean Ever Black model with a slim tapered fit. Thanks to their improved dyeing techniques, each pair of jeans is guaranteed to keep its colour for up to 50 washes.
The straight aka regular fit is a timeless classic. As the name suggests, the straight fit has a structured, balanced leg. Cinched at the waist, it proportions your thigh to calf ratio making them simple and easy to wear. Suited to most shapes and sizes, medium fit sculpts larger frames.
Think about the fit and look for a 1 cm cuff that hangs just above a pair of shoes.
Our style notes
Rich in American heritage, the iconic Levi’s 501 is a straight fit with endless street style allure – a modern twist on a retro silhouette.
For a formal touch, style with an elegant shirt- worn with a blazer and smart dress shoes like derbies or leather Chelsea boots. A longline coat cut at the knee can be the ideal contrast to a casual classic. A comfortable design, style with timeless classics or elegant separates to complete the look.
The designers’ designer when it comes to jeans, founders Judith and Mickaël Mouangué live denim. Working with forgotten artisanal techniques, the French design house work this humble cotton fibre to perfection. Sourcing the very finest yarns, their designs are made in Okayama, Japan using exclusive handicraft methods and finished to the highest standard possible.
Made for life, Renhsen jeans are cut from a heavy, thick and authentic Japanese denim that will age gracefully.
We particularly appreciate their signature Louis model constructed from a structured denim. Suited to all shapes and sizes, wear for a few days for optimal comfort.
The straight fit aka the semi-slim is the easiest fit to wear. Particularly flattering for anyone with muscly thighs, it’s a basic that suits all shapes and sizes. Fitted to the knee with a straight cuff its 17 cm straight lower leg offers a structured fit.
Ideal for athletic figures, this versatile design cinches in at the waist- offering a casual yet sophisticated look.
Our Style Notes
A normcore classic, style straight fit jeans with a humble tee; bomber and trainers for a minimalist look.
For added preppy cool, pair with a traditional white shirt and high shine derbies. For weekends, deconstruct a simple look with a rolled hem and a loose fitting shirt.
Origin : France
Atelier Notify is a story of an uncommon thread. Founded by a man that had never worn a pair of jeans before he arrived in Paris aged, today Maurice Ohayon is the head of an internationally respected denim brand. A tailor by trade, he quickly became enchanted by denim and turned his talents to making jeans that look and felt more formal.
With the brand’s focus shifting to function over fashion, in 2000 Atelier Notify launched a study into the human form to ensure each piece suited the modern silhouette.
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT ATELIER NOTIFY
Working to improve not just the cut but the colour too, Atelier Notify has mastered the entire process of denim construction. From finding the best materials to perfecting the finishing touches, the denim specialists savoir-faire has been celebrated across the industry –with collaboration projects with Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney and Bonpoint.
The modern wardrobe staple, each piece is thoughtfully crafted to accentuate the frame – making it a comfortable yet confident essential to style with a smart blazer and as an alternative to suit pants for a more casual look.
A form-flattering drainpipe design, get that tight fit with a silhouette that outlines your frame. Choose a medium or low rise cut for a next to skin silhouette that looks just as good as it feels.
Suited to longline and tall body shapes, the long leg gives extra room and its stretch composition adds a comfortable fit for everyday wear.
Our Style Notes
Eternally on-trend, the skinny fit first made its mark in the 80s and 90s with modish off-duty models.
Style with a pair of leather boots, shirt and bomber jacket for a throwback yet stylish look.
For more casual overtones, style with a pair of high top trainers, a sweatshirt and a longline coat for an urban look à le Français.
Naked and Famous work exclusively with Japanese selvedge denim. A love affair written in every pair, each design harness heritage techniques and artisanal methods. For Naked & Famous, their denim isn’t made for the masses, instead, each design celebrates generations of oriental savoir-faire and a lifetime of patient craftsmanship. Selecting twills with the highest quality and exceptional characteristics, the Canadian product team spend countless months on the road – developing and discovering new denims. Reversing the design process to focus on highlighting the twill, each piece is carefully constructed in Canada using modern and innovative techniques.
We love the signature styles from Naked and Famous that celebrate impeccable cuts and durable Japanese denim twills.
A singular look with a tapered leg, this fit suits guys with large thighs. Bringing a casual edge to the carrot-leg suit pant, its low rise and tailored fit brings a comfortable yet fashionable touch to your denim favourites.
Our Style Notes
Weekends have no dress code, style a tapered pair of jeans with a round collared shirt and a natural leather varsity jacket.
For Sunday brunch and beyond, roll up the hem and wear with a pair of high top trainers and a logo sweatshirt – for the urban vanguard, wear leather creepers with a tonal button up and bomber jacket.
We love telling our customers about the rich history of Edwin. A family business that has become an iconic Japanese denim manufacturer, Edwin started life in 1947 with Mr Tsunemi in a simple workshop. Fascinated by this classic fabric, the textile merchant started developing and creating his signature denim in 1961 under the eponymous brand, Edwin. An internationally renowned Japanese denim specialist with a strong European allure, inverting the M to W was the moniker that started a global movement.
An innovative denim manufacturer in a constant state of research and development, quality construction and affordable pricing make this brand one of our all-time favourites. One of the first brands to introduce selvedge denim to Europe, each piece is thoughtfully constructed with their infamous Rainbow selvedge – pioneering the iconic stonewash style.
Casual and comfortable, their tapered jeans are cut from exclusive Japanese fabric to ensure an authentic and endlessly wearable style staple.
With denim making its mark on contemporary street style, Levi’s decided to launch a range of premium jeans that celebrates the brand’s humble yet hardworking heritage. Inspired by iconic silhouettes, Levi’s Made & Craft is a modern interpretation of timeless design - introducing workwear to today’s everyday dresser via technical materials, performance features and timeless classics.
What we love about Levi’s Made & Crafted
An aesthetic in a constant state of change, their denim separates offer an elegant and refined sense of style – inspired by the street but distinctly authentic.
Working to incorporate the latest innovative techniques and construction methods, the brand is renowned for their pioneering approach to Japanese selvedge denim – crafting jeans with brushed finishes, artisanal embroidery, new thicknesses and handiwork finishing touches to ensure each piece celebrates the art of hard work.
Origin : USA
Reflecting the brand’s humble beginnings, Levi’s Vintage Clothing accentuates the power and potential of generational savoir-faire. A workwear company that dates back to 1950, their vintage collection was launched in 1999 as a homage to the most iconic models ever made. Reproduced with care and attention to detail, each piece uses the same denim crafted by Cone Mills in North Carolina – bringing a modern twist to a classic that returns to the brand’s roots.
What we love about Vintage Clothing
Adding a touch of character to functional workwear, we love the pieces that retrace the brand’s story back to the first pair.
Looking to the past to inspire the future, their timeless and hardwearing staples return a sense of practicality to this original wardrobe favourite.