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L’Exception meets Marine, founder of Les Garçonnes

For this edition of Smart Talk, we sat down with Marine Escurat, founder of the clothing brand, Les Garçonnes. Inspired by 20th century tailoring empowered by the female emancipation movement, Marine has become a specialist in menswear – dedicated to today’s modern matriarch. With a career that spans Europe, she decided to take a chance and launch her first label. Les Garçonnes is influenced by fierce and independent women throughout history. Each design translates those values with passion - a tribute to the heroines that came before us. Marine tells us about her creative process from mood board to manufacturing, sharing her ambitions for the future.

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L’Exception : Hi Marine, could you introduce yourself?

Marine : My name’s Marine, I’m 32 years old. I’m originally from Normandy. After college, I went to London. I met a designer who inspired me to pursue a career in fashion. So, when I got back to Paris, I enrolled at Mod’art. I studied there for three years and graduated with a design teaching degree. After that, I left for Madrid teaching at Mod’art for the next three years. When I came back to Paris, I worked as a freelance designer for different brands before founding Les Garçonnes.

When did you decide it was time to launch your own brand?

M : I inherited a collection of pleated pants that belonged to my grandmother in the 50s. I used to wear them all the time and everyone complimented me on them. They were made to measure by a small couturier in Paris. They were always a bit large so I used to wear them with a belt. That was really the point where I decided to launch my own brand.

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Les Garçonnes specialises in tailoring – precisely trousers. Where does this affection for menswear, notably high-waisted suit trousers come from?

M : From a young age, I’ve always worn trousers. I almost never wear skirts or dresses. I was always a bit of a tomboy and gravitated towards these types of pieces. I would go and ransack my father’s wardrobe. Trousers have always been the key piece in the way I dress. Because of that, I understand how problematic it can be to find a good pair of well-fitting pants; especially those that are made to last.

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The name ‘Les Garçonnes’ pays tribute to the emancipated women of the 1920s, notably those who refused to wear the corset. Do you think the industry still has a way to go when it comes to contemporary female fashion?

M : I think we have a lot more freedom to wear what we want to wear today, in France at least. I hope that everyone feels free enough to be who they want to be. I feel like fashion provides something for everyone.

Your designs are named after inspirational women: Simone de Beauvoir, Jane Birkin, Frida Kahlo… What’s your vision for the Les Garçonnes woman?

M : The Les Garçonnes woman is independent, free, she likes to feel comfortable and feminine. She is strong and intelligent. She also owns her masculine side. I think that all women have a masculine side, just as men have a feminine side. I like it when people take ownership of that and celebrate it.

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Aside from historical characters, where do you find the inspiration for your trouser design?

M : My grandmother is my number one source of inspiration. Wearing her trousers was a way of feeling that sense of freedom, experiencing her emancipation. She was an inspiring and avant-garde woman. She divorced in the 40s, when it was still frowned upon. Otherwise, menswear inspires me a lot, specifically pieces from the 30s up until the 50s. I also have my eyes open to street style, the details I see on trousers.

Tell us about your design process?

M : The majority of my work is on fabric. I start by choosing my favourite fabric. Once that is chosen I create a pattern and start working on a form. It’s a specialist form made for menswear so each design is crafted like a pair of men’s pants and then tailored to suit a woman. I rarely work from a flat surface, meaning we start with a loose design and I model it on myself. Then we add pleats, waist height, shape… I’m not great at sketches. I prefer to work based on a fabric’s weight and movement, I’m very focused on the pleats, the tailoring and the length. I have an idea in my head and it transforms during the design and form fitting process. After that, my designer creates a prototype before we oversee the production in a Parisian factory.

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Each piece from Les Garçonnes is made in Paris. Why is a short production cycle important to you?

M : For me, I appreciate the human element. I didn’t choose fashion because of fashion. I have never been passionate about fashion. It was the people I met that inspired me to do what I do. I like to have a close relationship with my manufacturers. I like the fact that I can say hello in the morning and see how they’re doing. It’s important to know who you’re working with so you can talk to them. I never started out with the idea to create a brand with a short production cycle. It’s simply the way it happened and now it seems so obvious why. I would never want to work with manufacturers outside of France, even Paris.

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You go to the Sentier once a week to recoup the surplus fabric from major fashion houses. How does that influence your work?

M : It defines the conditions in terms of quantity. I can find a fabric I’m really in love with and not have enough. When that happens, I’ll create a capsule collection or make a similar fabric. I work regularly in broadcloth as it’s quite easy to find. I’ve been making three types of pants for the last three years and each season I release one or two new designs.

This season, the ‘Les Garçonnes’ collection is expanding with your first jumpsuit. Would you like to offer a full collection in the future?

M : In my opinion, the jumpsuit is another version of a pair of trousers. When you perfect a pair of trousers it’s easy to create a jumpsuit. It’s important that the piece is well crafted and responds to the female figure. The jumpsuit, I believe suits most women. I’m also releasing a jacket, as I’ve had a number of requests from my customers asking to complete the outfit. It creates a casual look and feel. I might be making shorts, too. But I don’t want to expand the collection much more than that. Concerning the other pieces, I think other designers do that very well. When it comes to shirts, I would like to do that one day, a men’s shirt, of course, I only wear men’s shirts.

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And one day a collection for men?

M : All my trousers are unisex. I hope to have the means eventually to create trousers for men and women. I would have to redo all the patterns so I can adapt them.

How did you end up working with L’Exception?

M : I launched a crowdfunding campaign on KissKissBankBank and L’Exception was a mentor. I chose KissKissBankBank because of its affiliation with L’Exception and due to the interesting financing and pre-ordering projects available. That’s how I ended up working with L’Exception.

What have you got planned for the future?

M : To develop a menswear line and become the first name in quality trousers for both sexes. I would also like to launch a made to measure service. The idea is to develop a range of forms and fabrics and adapt the design to each client.

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Get to know Les Garçonnes

Your first fashion memory?

M : A Saint Laurent jacket my mother wore at Christmas when I was little.

Music you’re listening to at the moment?

M : Dance Monkey by Tones & I.

Your favourite film?

M : Anything from Wes Anderson.

A present you like to give?

M : Trousers.

A recommendation for our readers?

M : AGOGOGANG, in the 4th arrondissement.

Discover the collection of Les Garçonnes on L’Exception.

Photographe : Louise Reinke

Interview : Benjamin Benvenuti