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Revisiting this year exhibitions Hyeres

Each year, in support of contemporary design, the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Accessories and Photography takes place at the iconic villa Noailles. Each spring, the fashion industry descends on the south of France for the infamous young designer showcase – but the festival is more than fashion. For the 33rd consecutive year, the festival’s organisers Raphaëlle Stopin, Jean-Pierre Blanc and Magalie Guérin offer a select few of contemporary artists the chance to show their work in an exclusive exhibition, open to the public until the 27th May 2018.

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the intricacies of Haider Hackermann

On the old squash court in the villa’s grounds is the exhibition from Bettina Rheims and Bill Mullen. A collaborative project from the photographer and stylist that made their name in the 1990s while working for Condé Nast Details, the work harks back to the birth of pop culture with blasts of colour and strong visuals. Discover debuts by Angelina Jolie, Tupac and Gwen Stefani, immortalised by the president of the photography festival.
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A vanishing act

Accentuating the intricacies of Haider Hackermann, the Berluti designer and rumoured newest addition to Lanvin is also a jury member for the 33rd edition of the Festival. An installation that looks out towards the bay, each piece is placed on a white cubist platform and accompanied by avant-garde headpieces from Japanese designer Katsuya Kamo.
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Bettina Rheims and Bill Mullen.
Pierre Marie’s Pyjamas

Suspended from the ceiling, a pyjama ballet plays on in the villa’s gym. The work of illustrator Pierre Marie, this experiment in print and pattern touches on the signs of the zodiac and etymological design, offering a creative expression of style. Decorated with exotic and wanderlusting motifs, the humble two- piece pyjama set represents Pierre Marie’s colourful aesthetic interpreted via the savoir-faire of Punto Seta’s expert artisans.
Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Accessories and Photography is also an annual meet up for industry insiders.
To mark the occasion, we sat met up with influential designers and artists.

Marine Giraudo
Working in collaboration with 2017 festival winner, Vanessa Schindler, Marine Giraudo offers a surprising and innovative showcase. Scanning the works of Vanessa Schindler via photogrammetry and interpreting each piece into a multi-dimensional digital form, the result is a 3D discovery of each piece in Vanessa Schindler’s collection – offering an artificial yet dimensional twist to the designer’s multi-sensory collection.
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Marine Giraudo

L’Exception : How did the collaboration come about?
Marine Giraudo : The collaboration started before she [Vanessa Schindler] had shown at Hyères last year. In fact, this project is part of my ECAL graduate course at Lausanne. That’s where I discovered virtual reality and I was really surprised at the level of immersion it could offer. I was interested in adapting it to the medium of fashion and I needed to find a collection that would work with this type of experimental task. It was actually a mutual friend that put us in contact. I thought the collection was incredible, her use of urethane to avoid sewing was brilliant. The way she manipulated the synthetic material to construct her garments married well with the way I had to scan the pieces to create an experience. Here, it’s the complete opposite of a fashion show, each design is suspended in a virtual world and can be explored by the individual – you can
even get underneath.

The potential of virtual reality seems infinite...
Yes, that’s sort of the reason I chose it. I trained as a graphic designer and I was a bit disappointed with its limitations. So, I tried to create my own universe – the world of virtual reality is infinite – it’s a huge playground with no limits.
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3D discovery
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Vanessa Schindler s collection
Océane & Clémence Cahu
The story of how Cahu came to be is anything but ordinary. 30 years ago, two brothers got together to create a bouncy castle factory in Normandy using PVC. Today, the Cahu daughters are using that same base material to create a range of accessories from PVC and leather.
L’Exception : How did you become festival sponsors?
Cahu : We suggested creating a range of black fabric structures to Jean-Pierre Blanc to celebrate the first accessory collection shown at the festival. We set about developing a range of inflatable beds and a large archway for the runway. We wanted to create a place people could chill in the villa’s grounds and help organise the space.

There’s something nostalgic about these huge inflatable beds that people love...
Yes, that’s why we do it. This year we’ll be working in collaboration with the design Parade and the children’s festival in December. We’re starting the fun here and carrying on throughout the year.
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Cahu leather pvc
It looks like your design process is changing, with minimal designs and distinctive logos... Have you done that just for the festival or is part of a new
direction for Cahu?
We have created these designs as part of a capsule collection for the festival. The idea is to combine the brand’s inflatable castles with the accessory brand to create new connections between
the two businesses.

Any future projects planned?
Selling at L’Exception *laugh*
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Cahu black fabric structures
Cécile Gray
One of a select few chosen as part of the accessory prize at this year’s festival, we chatted to ex- architect, Cécile Gray who showcased her first collection of jewellery called, ‘Initiale(s)’. Questioning the dimensions and form of her accessories, the designer doesn’t hesitate to enlarge the proportions of a piece to help accentuate the body and accessorize a garment – pioneering a range of ‘clothing jewels’.
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Cecile Gray interview
L’Exception : Looking at your collection, you seem to have elevated an aesthetic to something bigger than jewellery. You have created something that
transforms an outfit...
Cécile Gray : Yes, I have created a range of decorative pieces that can be easily added to a simple outfit. There are four large pieces in the collection inspired by prêt à porter. They have been crafted exclusively in metal. Then there are three smaller pieces, designed with the same leitmotiv to elevate their purpose. There is a bracelet that becomes a sleeve, a bib necklace and oversized earrings that look really delicate.

Do you make everything by hand?
Yes, everything is handcrafted. I tried lots of different methods to create this collection from flatform to 3D directly on Stockman. I could have done everything in one dimension but I wanted to explore 3D. I was really influenced by my former training and previous career. I created these pieces with the logic of an architect.
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decorative pieces Cecile Gray
How have you found this year’s festival?
I’ve loved it, I’m learning so much! It’s an amazing way to meet people and show your work. I only quit my job as an architect six months ago. I took a year’s sabbatical where I trained at Chardon Savard atelier and in December I decided to launch my own line. It’s been an amazing experience.
Head to Villa Noailles until the 27th May 2018 to see the exhibitions in situ.
© Photos by Régis Pennel - Founder
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