Hemp

What is hemp?

Hemp is a natural plant fiber that has been used in clothing for thousands of years. In fact, hemp was one of mankind's first textile sources. Another notable fact about it is that it is the most environmentally-friendly natural material in the textile world, since it pollutes neither during cultivation nor during its transformation into fabric. This makes it the material of choice for eco-responsible brands. It is also renowned for its high resistance, making it possible to manufacture garments that last over time. It is also naturally hypoallergenic. Clothing made from hemp is therefore natural, biodegradable, kind to the skin and long-lasting. What more can we expect?

Where does hemp come from?

Despite its many qualities, hemp today is grown very little for textiles, accounting for just 0.5% of the world's natural fiber production. However, its cultivation is growing steadily.
Hemp is a plant that grows in many parts of the world, including Europe, Asia-Pacific, North America and Oceania. In 2020, nearly 221,561 hectares of hemp were cultivated worldwide, with nearly 65,400 hectares in China, the world's leading producer. Next come the United States with 29,137 hectares and Canada with 22,243. France is Europe's leading producer, with no less than 20,000 hectares under cultivation. By 2022, 21,700 hectares of hemp had been cultivated, and the crop is gradually spreading.

Material transformation processes (from plant to garment):

Various stages are required to transform the hemp plant into textile fiber.

The first step in the process is to mow the plants directly in the field to preserve the stalk intact. Once cut, the stalks are placed on the ground for the second stage, known as retting. This is a maceration phase applied to textile plants such as lin or hemp, and is designed to facilitate separation of the filamentous bark from the stalk. Thanks to the action of micro-organisms and bacteria present in the soil, retting removes the pectin (a gelatinous texture found in most plant cell walls) that binds textile fibers to the woody part of the plant. In this way, the bast fibers (the fibers that give strength to the stem) begin to detach from the pith fibers or other plant tissues. This stage takes place directly in the field, thanks to the action of dew, rain and sun. It normally lasts between 21 and 28 days, but can last longer in warmer seasons when dew is scarce.
This stage must be completed before the stalks are baled, otherwise they may rot and lose their color during storage.

Next comes the defibration stage, which consists in crushing the straw (previously baled) to separate the chenevotte (rigid inner part) from the fiber. This is done mechanically, using mechanical hammers. During this process, care must be taken to maintain the length of the fiber as a "long strand", thus preserving its mechanical properties and strength.

Then comes the combing stage, which removes impurities and unwanted shorter fibers.
Once combed, the fiber is sent to the spinning mill. This is a complex process that transforms the fibers into yarn. The sliver is drawn, becoming a roving which is then spun by applying a twist. Various diameters are obtained according to requirements, and the resulting bobbins are then sent to weaving or knitting. Finally, once the fabric has been woven, it is spun into a roving.
Finally, once the fabric has been woven or knitted, there is one last step: finishing. This comprises 4 stages: bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing. These processes modify the appearance and properties of the yarn or fabric.
Finally, confection involves cutting and assembling the fabric to create the final product.

Is hemp compatible with ethical and responsible fashion?

Yes, it's even the material compatible with ethical and responsible fashion par excellence, and for a variety of reasons.
Let's start with its cultivation. Hemp is a very easy plant to cultivate, growing on the same principles as weeds. In other words, it requires no irrigation, is resistant to insects and most diseases, and grows very quickly. So it needs little or no fertilizer or pesticides to thrive.

It has another very interesting feature: it regenerates the soil on which it grows. It can increase the yield of succeeding crops in a field by 10-20%, making it the crop of choice in crop rotation.
It requires 10 times less water than cotton.
What's more, it's a recyclable and biodegradable material if the dye is biocompatible.

Does hemp have any other advantages?

Hemp is a noble, healthy material with a multitude of qualities.
In addition to its high resistance, hemp is anti-UV (it filters UVA & B) , anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and thermoregulating, which captures odors. It is highly insulating and absorbent, and improves over time with washing and regular wear. It dries quickly and does not irritate the skin. Thanks to its high absorption capacity, textiles made from hemp retain fixed colors more effectively, which saves dyeing costs for manufacturers.
Thanks to its exceptional moisture management and antibacterial properties, hemp is a good solution for the manufacture of medical equipment such as masks and gowns, which can become real natural protective barriers.

How do I care for hemp?

Hemp is one of the few materials to become softer and softer with use, which means that the more care you take with your hemp garments, the longer you'll be able to keep them.
When it comes to washing, it's best to hand-wash or machine-wash in cold water using a mild, natural soap. When washing by hand, it's important to rinse off any soap residue that may cause brown spots on the fabric due to oxidation.
If your pretty garment is stained, don't panic - simply wash it immediately in hot water, paying particular attention to the stain.

As for drying, you'll need to lay the garment flat to dry, so that it doesn't wrinkle as it dries. Be careful not to dry the garment completely, or it will become brittle. If you do, it will take several hours to regain its natural moisture and suppleness.
What's more, if you want to iron it, you'll find it easier to do so on a garment that's still slightly damp, using a medium to high temperature.



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